Showing posts with label Venetian Islands. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Venetian Islands. Show all posts

Thursday, May 04, 2017

VENICE 2017: The San Michele Island Cemetery


So, after lunch on Murano (last post), we hopped on the vaporetto for the 1.5 km. ride to the San Michele island, which we had passed that morning.

See how close it is, halfway between Venice and Murano.  (Wiki image)
But how many tourists ever visit San Michele???

You can actually see the island easily from the northern coast of Venice.
What you see is a walled island...and what's inside is a cemetery.
Have you ever heard of an island that is a cemetery?

It became a cemetery in 1807 "when under French occupation it was decreed that burial on the mainland...was unsanitary." 

The Church of San Michele from 1469 is the main landmark of the island,
the first Renaissance church in Venice.
See how close the Murano lighthouse appears behind it (top-right).

In fact, on our way to Murano that morning, look what we saw leaving the cemetery stop.
There had just been a service, after which the casket was being transported back to Venice.
Because of increasing lack of space, most bodies are now buried on the mainland.

But later, there's the Murano lighthouse again, when we left after lunch,
and then quickly rounded the church on our way to the San Michele vaporetto stop.

The entrance through the wall is immediately there upon disembarking.
And then?  Where to begin!

Because it was right there, we decided to start with the church,
passing through the 15th century cloister.

We wondered if the flowers were from the morning's service?

You know how much we love these places of worship...
like museums to us who view them without a Roman Catholic upbringing.

Then we started to wander about.
There are three different cemeteries on the island and this is the Roman Catholic section.

We hate seeing the graves for children, of course...or for anyone, for that matter.

But we knew famous foreigners were also buried there:
Ezra Pound, Sergei Diaghilev and Igor Stravinsky, for example.
We found the latter two, with their tell-tale signs of music and ballet, in the Greek Orthodox section.

As you'd expect, we often came to the wall's perimeter of the cemetery 
and had to turn into a new direction....

leading us to sections totally different from the last,

like to the 7 war graves from WWI.

This is the Protestant section of the cemetery.  Can you tell?

This San Cristoforo church originally belonged to San Cristoforo della Pace, 
another island that was eventually merged together with San Michele for the cemetery.
The original church was demolished and rebuilt in the mid-19th century,
but we did not visit it.

Lining the walls to the church were more tombs...

and then the other end of the cemetery.
I'm sure we missed a lot but we got the gist, which is what we had come to see.

As we left, we had a better view of the floating statue we had seen earlier:

It's the Barque of Dante created by Georgy Frangulyan in 2007.
"The composition is based on the episode from The Divine Comedy in which Dante and Virgil
cross the river Acheron, and the water boils with damned souls.  Virgil of bronze shows Dante
to the island of San Michele, where the famous Venetian cemetery is situated."

Supposedly it's the only statue in the world standing in the water.
It was created for the 52nd Venice Biennale but will now remain there forever.
A fitting close to an afternoon at the San Michele cemetery!


Tuesday, April 25, 2017

VENICE 2017: Torcello Island and the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta


As you surely know by now, Astrid and I tried to see every possible place of interest while in Venice during our 7 days. Torcello, the island farthest away and to the north of Venice, was one of our highlights.

It took us an hour on the vaporetto to get there.
(Wiki image)

To save our feet, knowing it would be a long day, we opted to sit inside to view what passed us by.
There are over 50 islands in the Venetian Lagoon, many of them only as big as a postage stamp.
When you finally see Torcello (bottom-right) you see why we went there.

From the vaporetto stop, there's only one way into the "village," population 60+/-.

The main drag, passing the cafés and 2 hotels, eventually gives view of the cathedral's bell tower.

But before you get there, you can't resist what I called the White House (a restaurant)!

Then you see it/them:  first the Church of Santa Fosca (center with dome) from the 11th century,
and next to it the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, with bell tower, founded in AD 639.
It's the oldest building in the Venetian Lagoon.

While purchasing our tickets, we discovered the bell-tower bells would strike noon in 20+ min.,
so we opted for climbing the ramped staircase of the bell tower, before entering the cathedral.
We made sure we were back down before the bells chimed because they were loud.
In fact, they warn you 5 minutes ahead of time before each hour.

But what a view from up on high!

We could even see Burano with its tilted tower, the island we would visit later that afternoon.

Down from the bell tower, we finally entered the Byzantine cathedral, a basilica.

The marble columns are from the 11th century.
The rood screen separating the nave from the chancel area...I wanted to know more.
The skull of St. Cecilia....

Behind the rood screen is the main aspe with its 11th cent. mosaic of the Virgin and the Apostles,
and its marble mosaic floors (where I saw a quilt!).

The present basilica is from 1008, but the marble pulpit is from fragments of the first 7th c. church.
On the west wall, over the main door, is the huge mosaic of the Last Judgment (12th century).

[No photos were allowed inside, which explains why I have so few. surreptitiously taken behind Astrid as my shield.
I can mention in comments why I "disobey" these rules, if you wish.]

Outside in the courtyard are Roman relics galore.
It's believed Attila the Hun used the marble seat as his throne (bottom-center) in the 5th century.

So many things to see...an outdoor museum.

We even walked around to the back of the complex where we got the bell tower in the sun.

The bigger picture, indeed!

By then it was time for lunch, at one of the cafés we had passed on our way in.

And then we were off to the nearby islands of Burano and Mazzorbo (next post)....


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